The pedestrianized shopping street of İstiklal Caddesi boasts one of modern Istanbul’s most nostalgic sights: antique tram cars which rattle up and down the mile-long street, from the Tünel station to Taksim Square.
The sight of the antique tram in bustling, forward-looking Taksim Square is initially jarring. One might think that it’s a replica, a nod to the past, until the thing starts moving and people clamber on, fighting for seats. Puttering down the street at speeds barely eclipsing walking pace, the tram proves an irresistible lure for the city’s mischievous youth, who hop onto the back for a free ride.
These freeloaders have the tacit permission of the tram drivers, who are dressed up in period gear and spend as much time waving to photo-taking bystanders as conducting. And so, the tram is a curious hybrid; both a solution to the Beyoğlu’s transportation needs, and a wistful tribute to the past. There’s the costumed driver, the rascally scamps hanging off the back, the slow speeds, and the antiquated cars. But despite the overt play to nostalgia, the tram is very practical and used by as many locals as tourists.
The slow speeds are necessary, since İstiklal Caddesi (Independence Road) is both pedestrianized and extremely busy. And if you’re going to have slow speeds anyway, you might as well use antiquated cars. In which case, go ahead and outfit the conductors accordingly. And turn a blind eye to innocent mischief. Though it seems superfluous at first blush, the tram makes sense on reflection.
It takes about twelve minutes to complete the mile-long route, including a single stop midway through; in other words, not much faster than walking would be. But then, walking isn’t anywhere near as fun as sitting at the window of an antique tram, watching the modern world slowly rumble by.
Station Locations: Taksim Square | Galatasaray School | Tünel Entrance
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